Jacques Magazine

Jonathan Leder & Danielle Luft

Produced by Marc Santo & Scott Newman
Director of Photography: Kevin Scheafer
Camera Operators: Kevin Scheafer, Ray Zablocki, Kevin Gillooly
Edited by Xavi Marrades Orga
Music: Time Lee of Boy Scout Recordings
Interview by Marc Santo

Danielle Luft is a former fashion model whose editorial spreads by Terry Richardson and Bruce Webber have been featured in the pages of French Vogue. Jonathan Leder is a photographer who has shot for magazines like Nylon and A4. The two met on a photo shoot, and within a couple years they married and gave birth to a son, Jack, and a magazine, Jacques.

Published quarterly from their Williamsburg loft, Jacques is a throwback to the classic days of Playboy and collectible pulp magazines. The retro art direction pulls equally from back issues of vintage skin mags like Oui and Nova, as well as obscure art magazines like Wet and Avant Garde. The photographs, shot exclusively on film and published without re-touching,conjure up the soft focused spirit of works by master erotic photographers like David Hamilton and Carlo Mollino. Each issue, released under themes that celebrate everything from sports to voyeurism, feature opinionated reporting, provocative interviews and soft-core pictorials that present the curvier, artier, girl we all wished lived next door.

The culmination of Jacques’ highly stylized aesthetic is a masterfully crafted men’s magazine that brazenly announces itself as an analog project for the digital age. It may look like something that you’d expect to find stashed away under your father’s mattress, but it doesn’t quite feel like porn.

MARC SANTO: How did Jacques happen?

JONATHAN LEDER: When I looked around at the magazine industry, I got frustrated. There are so many things wrong with magazines that it’s embarrassing.

DANIELLE LUFT: Most magazines are crap and people wonder why they’re closing.

JONATHAN LEDER: They pander to advertisers and worry about featuring products that nobody needs. That model is broken and the magazine today doesn’t matter, which is sad. For us this magazine is a reaction to the status quo and the garbage that’s out there right now.

MARC SANTO: Do you consider Jacques to be pornographic?

JONATHAN LEDER: I think there’s something charming about our nudity. I don’t think we’re doing nudity in a vulgar way. I think there’s something tasteful and elegant about it. And I hope that comes across.

DANIELLE LUFT: Compared to most things nowadays, I think we’re actually kind of wholesome.

JONATHAN LEDER: Pornography has a very dirty and cheap connotation, and I don’t see anything about our magazine being cheap or dirty. We have high production values and are tame compared to other stuff that’s out there. I guess you could call it a nudie mag but younger people don’t really understand nudie. We call it erotic and maybe that’s worse, but in my opinion erotic doesn’t necessarily have to be showing anything. It’s just a word that captures the feeling behind the photos.

DANIELLE LUFT: The great line is that we’re a nudie magazine that’s fashionable.

JONATHAN LEDER: We’re not a fashion magazine. I hope nobody puts us in the category of being a fashion magazine. It’s really about the girls isn’t it?

DANIELLE LUFT: Yeah, the girls and the photography.

JONATHAN LEDER: And the articles.

DANIELLE LUFT: Right, the articles too. !ere has be something in there that I can tell my mom.

MARC SANTO: What type of girls do you look for?

JONATHAN LEDER: We’re looking for a special kind of quality. If they’re too overtly sexual, or more on the vulgar edge, we stay away from that. We’re looking for something more innocent and a little bit more girl-next-door.

DANIELLE LUFT: We love American girls! Somewhere along the line the industry shifted to Russians and Brazilians and we’re not into that.

JONATHAN LEDER: I don’t understand why girls have to be so foreign looking to be beautiful?

DANIELLE LUFT: They like them because they’re skinny.

JONATHAN LEDER: During the second half of the 20th century we had beautiful American pinups, and in the ’70s we had beautiful girls with freckles. It was always very American.

DANIELLE LUFT: And then in the ’80s we had Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford, and that was really the last of the American girls.

JONATHAN LEDER: In the last 15 years we’ve been seeing an imported idea of  beauty. If you ask a normal person if a Russian model is beautiful, they’ll probably say yes. I don’t think we subscribe to that kind of aesthetic. I think we shoot girls that nobody else would shoot because they’re shorter than your stereotypical model and maybe 2 sizes too big. They don’t fit that stupid spec sheet that modeling agencies have, so they rarely work in that industry, which is sad because they’re beautiful girls.

MARC SANTO: How would you describe the Jacques aesthetic?

JONATHAN LEDER: Our aesthetic differs significantly from what you’ll find on the newsstands today, but I don’t think it differs from what you would have found on the newsstand 40 years ago. We’re inspired by book and magazine design pre-1986. Somewhere around the late ’80s the quality shifted and things became more plastic. We’re going for a retro feel that’s bold. We don’t shoot anything digital. Everything is film, so we’re definitely trying to keep it analog.

MARC SANTO: Why have you chosen to avoid digital photography and retouching?

JONATHAN LEDER: It’s a magazine, not something you see on your computer, and so the photography should echo that fact. If you look back to a French Vogue from the 1970s you can see the pores and the hairs on the skin. Sometimes when you look at the pictures of these girls, it’s these details and imperfections that get you going. What are we so afraid of today? Why does everybody have to be retouched? I have no idea where this came from!

DANIELLE LUFT: There’s something honest about showing women how we really are. We have scars, pimples, stretch marks, and that shouldn’t be retouched. When you’re checking out a hot girl on the street she’s not airbrushed. Retouching is sounnecessary.

JONATHAN LEDER: When I’m taking a photograph, I have a specific idea of what I’m looking for. Everything is planned out ahead of time, so by the time I’m actually pressing the button the photograph is done and a monkey could take that picture at that point. A great picture is a great picture no matter what format it’s shot on, but to me film looks more elegant. Photography is more of a state of mind than anything else, and it’s not particularly technical. If you can’t operate a camera, you’re going to have trouble with most things in life.

Jacques Magazine's NYC


photo: Robert Wright
  • “I love looking at old school fabrics and I love costume history. The Costume Institute at the Met has one of the best collections of both. This place is so inspirational.” –Danielle
  • “Mood is my favorite fabric shop in the city. They were always featured on ‘Project Runway’ and they absolutely have the best stuff in the city.”
  • “This is one of the best lingerie shops anywhere. They’re well curated and have been really kind to us by providing our models with elegant lingerie to wear.” –Danielle
  • “Hasaki is my favorite sushi in the East Village, and one of my favorite sushi spots in New York. I used to work for a Japanese photographer and he would take me here all the time. It’s really good.” –Jonathan
  • “There’s a scene in Woody Allen’s ‘Husbands and Wives’ that takes place in this restaurant. It’s one of the most famous Chinese restaurants in the world and we love it!” –Jonathan
  • “La Grenouille is a great old school New York restaurant from the ’70s that’s very famous. We got married here and they have a room in the restaurant that used to be a painter’s studio, so the place has a great feel to it. The owner used to be friends with a lot artists like Greta Garbo and Charlie Chaplin, and the creative vibe is still there. Also, check out the fireplace. It’s amazing!” –Danielle
  • “The Smile is owned by some friends of ours. It’s a great cafe in the East Village that has a really nice look to it. We try to eat there at least once a week.” –Jonathan
  • “This in one of my favorite bookstores in the city. They have an excellent vintage porn collection that’s for sale but hidden in the back. If you’re interested in this type of stuff, you’ll have to ask them for it.” –Jonathan

More Videos

  • Ann Liv Young

    Performer

    "I have my own issues with exploitative sex and porn and when I make sexually explicit work I'm really exploring my own questions."
  • Josh Hadar

    Bike Builder

    "This has become an obsession, a sickness. I have about 30 different ideas for bikes in my head at any given time."
  • Garrison Buxton & Ray Cross

    Ad Hoc Art

    "Art blurs the boundaries of life and creativity."
  • Lorie Karnath

    President, The Explorers Club

    "Members from our club have been the first to climb Mt. Everest & the first to land on the moon."
  • Trenton Doyle Hancock

    artist

    "I get my inspiration from comics, films, toys & posters and then I put them together to form a hybrid experience."
  • Pigeon Lady

    Pigeon Fancier

    "Racing pigeons is a big money game. It's generally a 'made man's' sport."
  • Miles Rohan

    The Corduroy Club

    "The club was met with a lot of resistance. In fact, our first website was sabotaged."
  • Emily's Feet

    Foot Fetish Model

    "Once in a while someone will contact me who wants to eat an ice cream sunday off my feet. Of course I say yes, but it's a little odd."
  • Ari Up

    Punk Legend

    "My sound is authentic and honest. You can hear Brooklyn coming through it."
  • Tod Seelie

    Photographer

    "The New York I live in is populated by bands, bicycles and booty dancing."
  • Fred Cray

    Photographer

    "Setting myself on fire was a trial and error process. There was some pain..."
  • Kev O'Kane Part I

    Past Life Regressionist

    "Past Life Regression is the closest thing we have to time travel."

What do you think?

on revel in new york

Great site!

"I don't see anything about

3

"I don't see anything about our magazine being dirty or cheap"

::cue dirty, cheap, porn style music::

I guess Revel editors disagree!

I just don't like that now I can't release a magazine with my last name on it.

Jacques

3

Jacques is nothing short ofspectacular.hearkens back to the retro Playboy Magazines that we all love. The art direction pulls from the back issues of Oui and obscure art